After crossing Snoqualmie Pass eastbound on I-90 the landscape looks very different from the tall green trees, a ceiling of leaves, and soft moss that we see in Western Washington.  Instead, the land is more plain-like with its rolling hills, greenish-gray sagebrush, and bright yellow petaled balsamroot. Central Washington is significantly drier than its western partner, getting an average of only 7-9 inches of rain a year. The Cascade mountains capture most of the rain that would otherwise fall in Central Washington.

Vantage, a “census-designated place” (rather than a town) is located 29 miles east of Ellensburg, about a two-hour drive from Seattle. In a recent count, the population of Vantage was zero (0). There are two businesses – the Ginkgo Gem Shop and a Chevron Gas Station. Not very big, but very beautiful. Vantage sits at the entrance to the Vantage Bridge over the Columbia River. From 1914-1927, when the original bridge was built, the only way to cross the river was to take the car ferry.  The bridge was a response to regular loss of cars falling over the side of the ferry, often with their passengers. The original bridge was replaced in 1962 and is currently undergoing significant construction to improve its safety.

Vantage had been inhabited  by the Wanapum Native American Tribe since prehistoric times.  About 60 members of the tribe still live near the site of the Priest Lake Dam, 24 miles south of Vantage and extending to both Grant and Yakima counties.  Much of the tribe’s history was documented on cliffs in the form of petroglyphs. In the 1960’s, rising water on the cliffs behind the Wanapum Dam caused significant flooding. Of the approximately three hundred carvings, 60 were cut from the basalt cliffs and saved, and can be seen in the Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park.

Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park

The Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park has 7124 acres of land, and over 27,000 feet of shoreline along the west side of the Columbia River.  The park consists of camping, picnicking, swimming and walking trails, as well as the Ginkgo Petrified Forest Interpretive Center, the Trailside Museum, and the Trees of Stone Interpretive Trail. 

The Interpretive Center is located high on a cliff above the park’s recreation area with a stately view of the river and its walls created by the Ice Age Floods. Did you know that Washington’s state gem is petrified wood?  The park is considered one of the most diverse fossil forests in North America, and the Interpretive Center is known for its rare specimens of a petrified ginkgo tree that was discovered in 1932.

Two miles north on the Vantage Highway is the Trees of Stone Trail with a total of 3.0 miles of trail, including 1½ miles that weave throughout the petrified logs.  As typical on this side of the mountains, the forest is dry and covered with sagebrush and balsam root. There is no protection from the hot sun or the wind that blows freely. It was both sunny and windy the day I visited. Due to vandalism that has occurred on the trail’s 20 petrified logs the logs are now protected in cages at their original locations. It is unfortunate that these trees are unable to show their history without protection that blocks much of their beauty and science.   And as in many places in central and eastern Washington, we’re still at risk for meeting a rattlesnake.

Wild Horses Wind and Solar Center

About 11 miles west of Vantage and high up on the Whiskey Dick Mountain is a  Puget Sound wind farm called the Wild Horses Wind and Solar Center, and the outstanding visitor center, the Renewable Energy Center. This wind farm is one of Puget Sound’s three in Washington State, the other two located in Columbia County and the largest in Garfield County.

The Center’s location has unprotected strong winds and a lot of sun, is remote, and has easy access to power transmission lines, making it perfect for a wind and solar energy farm.  The turbines are 351 feet high, and each blade is 129 feet long, with a rotating diameter of 264 feet, longer than a Boeing 747 wingspan. The turbines can produce energy with wind speeds as low as 9 miles per hour (mph), reach their full power at 50 mph, and will shut down when the wind speed reaches 56 mph.  There are 149 turbines that power approximately 60,000 homes, and each individual turbine powers an average of 440 homes.  Additionally Wild Horse has a total of 2,723 solar panels on top of the mountain’s ridge.

The Renewable Energy Center visitor center is exceptional with its extensive displays that teach all you want to know about renewable energy. Twice a day, April through October 31st there are guided tours of a solar array, blades, turbine generator,  a turbine and more. I was unable to participate in the guided tour. However there is a very comprehensive self-guided tour document that I found extremely helpful.   

Despite the sunshine, but thanks to the very intense wind, even my gloves were not warm enough for me to stay any longer.

Wild Horses Monument

I couldn’t resist crossing the Vantage Bridge, even knowing major construction was taking place. But I have been drawn to visit the Wild Horses Monument  for a log time. The monument’s real name is “Grandfather Cuts Loose the Ponies”, and is a gift from sculpture David Govedare of Chewelah, Washington. Originally Govedare envisioned 18 horses jumping out of a woven steel basket. However fund raising  was limited, and the project ended with 15 horses.

The display sits 2 miles north of the east side of the bridge on I-90, on a cliff with a vast view of the Columbia River. There is parking for a limited number of cars . The trail up to the horses, although not long, is relatively steep and the rocks and dry soil make it very slippery.  Walking poles were extremely helpful, especially with a heavy camera around my neck.  The climb was worth it.  The horses are spectacular.

To see them as a group it is best to view them from a distance, as they appear to be running in sync.  Up close I saw  each as an individual animal with its own mid-gallop energy, position and direction. Rust has developed on all of them but does not interfere with my enjoyment.  Unfortunately, many of them have graffiti which does.  Just as with the petrified trees having been vandalized, these horses have experienced it as well. It saddens me that natural or person-made treasures cannot avoid being defamed by humans.